Color Mixing guide

Color Mixing for Painters and Makers

Mix the colors you need from a handful of paints, and understand why they sometimes misbehave.

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Approximate results with idealized pigments. Real paints differ, which is why a personal mixing chart beats any diagram.

You do not need forty tubes of paint. With a few well-chosen colors and some patience, you can mix nearly any hue you want, and match the color of a vase, a sofa or a sunset. The skill is knowing what happens when two colors meet.

This guide covers how paint mixing works, how to make secondaries, tertiaries, greens, browns and grays, how to neutralize a color that is too loud, and why the color wheel on your wall does not always predict what happens in the jar. Tips for acrylic, watercolor and dye are at the end.

Subtractive mixing in plain words

Screens make color by adding light: red, green and blue light combine toward white. Paint, ink, dye and crayon work the opposite way. They start with white light bouncing off a surface, and each pigment subtracts (absorbs) part of that light. Mix more pigments and more light gets absorbed, so the result gets darker and usually duller. This is called subtractive mixing.

That is objective physics, and it has a practical lesson: the more colors you stir together, the closer you get to a muddy dark brown or gray. Most good mixes use two pigments, sometimes three. Past that, you are usually making mud.

Mixing secondaries and tertiaries

On the traditional red-yellow-blue wheel, primaries mix into secondaries, and a primary mixed with a neighboring secondary makes a tertiary.

MixResultType
Red + yellowOrangeSecondary
Yellow + blueGreenSecondary
Blue + redPurpleSecondary
Yellow + orangeYellow-orangeTertiary
Blue + greenBlue-greenTertiary
#E63946
#FFD60A
#1D4E89
#F77F00
#2A9D4A
#6A3D9A

Above are a red (#E63946), yellow (#FFD60A) and blue (#1D4E89) with the orange (#F77F00), green (#2A9D4A) and purple (#6A3D9A) they tend to make. Real paint rarely lands on these exact values, which is the subject of a later section.

Start with the lighter color and add the darker one a little at a time. A drop of blue changes yellow a great deal. A drop of yellow barely moves a dark blue.

Neutralizing with complements

Colors opposite each other on the wheel cancel each other's strength. Add a little of the complement to a color and it becomes duller and darker without turning gray in a flat way. This is how painters get rich, living neutrals.

  • Orange too loud? Add a touch of blue.
  • Green too artificial? Add a touch of red.
  • Purple too sweet? Add a touch of yellow.

Equal parts of two true complements give a neutral brown-gray. Shift the ratio and you steer toward warm or cool. This is more interesting than adding black, which flattens a color instead of calming it. That preference is editorial, but many painters share it.

Greens, browns and grays

Greens

Green is the color most often wanted and most often got wrong. Different yellows and blues give very different greens. A lemony yellow with a greenish blue makes a bright spring green. An orange-leaning yellow with a purple-leaning blue gives a dull olive. To tame a green, add a speck of red.

#6BBF59
#2A9D4A
#4F772D
#31572C
#7A8450

Browns

Brown is a dark, dulled orange. Mix orange with its complement blue, or red, yellow and blue together in uneven amounts. More red gives a chestnut such as #7B3F00. More yellow gives a golden tan. More blue gives a cool espresso.

Grays

A chromatic gray, made from a complement pair plus white, is livelier than gray from a black tube. Try blue and orange with white to get a soft warm or cool gray such as #8D99AE or #A39A92.

#7B3F00
#A67B5B
#8D99AE
#A39A92

Make a mixing chart

A mixing chart is a grid that records what your own paints do. It will save you hours of guessing.

  1. Choose six to eight paints: a warm and a cool version of each primary, plus white.
  2. Draw a grid with each paint across the top and down the side.
  3. Fill each box with a 50/50 mix of the row and column colors.
  4. Add a second small grid with a 25/75 ratio for finer steps.
  5. Write the names of the paints on the card and date it.

Use the same brush stroke and thickness in each box. Let it dry before you judge, because many paints shift as they dry.

Why pigments differ from the wheel

The wheel is a clean model. Paint is a physical material. No tube pigment reflects a single perfect wavelength, so every pigment carries some bias.

  • Bias. A blue may lean slightly toward green or toward purple. A red may lean orange or lean purple. Mix a blue-leaning-green with a yellow and you get a bright green. Mix a purple-leaning blue with a yellow and you get a dull one.
  • Opacity. Opaque pigments cover. Transparent ones let the layer below show through. This changes the look of a mix on a dark surface.
  • Strength. Some pigments are very strong and overwhelm a mix quickly.
  • Drying shift. Acrylic tends to dry a little darker. Watercolor dries lighter.

This is why a mixing chart made with your actual supplies beats any diagram.

Tips for acrylic, watercolor and dyes

Acrylic

Mix on a palette with a palette knife, not a brush, to avoid wearing out bristles. Keep a spray bottle handy so the paint does not skin over. Mix more than you need for a big surface.

Watercolor

Transparent paint mixes best with two pigments only. Mixing on the paper (letting colors blend wet-in-wet) gives luminous results. Add water instead of white to lighten.

Dyes

Dye colors depend on the fabric as well as the dye. Cotton, silk and polyester take color differently. Test on a scrap of the same fabric, and wear gloves and a mask when handling powder. Work with good ventilation and use tools you will not use for food.

When to use it

  • You need a custom color that you cannot find in a store.
  • You want to match an existing paint, fabric or object.
  • You are painting furniture, a mural or a canvas and want to save money on tubes.
  • A color you bought looks too bright and needs calming.
  • You want to learn how your own paints behave before a big project.
  • You are planning a gradient, ombre or fade.

Common mistakes

Mixing too many colors

Three or more pigments in one mix usually give mud. Start with two and adjust with a tiny third only if needed.

Adding the strong color first

Dark, strong pigments take over quickly. Begin with the lighter color and add the dark one in small touches.

Skipping the dry test

Wet paint lies. Brush a patch on scrap, let it dry, and compare it to the target.

Not mixing enough

Matching a color twice is hard. Mix a bit more than you expect to need and store it in a labeled jar.

Using black to darken

Black can flatten and dirty a hue. Try a dark complement or a darker neighbor for richer shadows.

Recommended combinations

Editorial suggestion These palettes are starting points we like. Open one in the tools to adjust it or check its contrast.

#C8E6A0
#6BBF59
#2A9D4A
#31572C

Spring Greens

Lemony yellow with a greenish blue, then deepened with a bit of red. Fresh for planters and paper leaves.

Open in Palette Builder Compare
#F3E9DC
#C9B79C
#A67B5B
#7B3F00

Warm Neutrals

Browns built from orange and blue plus white. A friendly base for wooden furniture.

Open in Palette Builder Compare
#EDF0F4
#B8C0CC
#8D99AE
#4A5568

Cool Grays

Gray mixed from blue and orange feels softer than tube black. Good for walls.

Open in Palette Builder Compare
#FFD60A
#F77F00
#E63946
#6A3D9A

Sunset Mix

Yellow, orange, red and purple stepped around the wheel. Works as a canvas gradient.

Open in Palette Builder Compare

Practical DIY applications

  • Acrylic mixing chart card. Paint a grid of 50/50 mixes on a sheet of heavy paper and pin it above your workspace. Label each paint so you can repeat the mixes later.
  • Custom wall color from samples. Mix two small test pots of paint in different ratios and brush each onto a board. Look at them morning and evening before you buy a gallon.
  • Watercolor gradient bookmarks. Wet a strip of watercolor paper and drop in two colors at the ends, letting them meet in the middle. Cut into bookmarks once dry.
  • Dye bath for fabric. Mix a dye bath in a labeled bucket, test on a scrap, and dip a napkin or tote bag. Wear gloves, work in a ventilated space and rinse before drying.

Try it with the tools

Use the Palette Builder to generate schemes from any color, or Color Compare to check how two colors work together.

Projects to try

Questions people ask

Why does my purple look muddy?

Most likely your red and blue each carry a hint of yellow, which dulls the mix. Choose a purple-leaning red and a purple-leaning blue for a cleaner result.

Can I make black from other colors?

Yes, by mixing deep complements such as blue and brown. The result is a lively dark that often looks better than tube black, though it takes a little practice.

Do I need a color wheel to mix paint?

The wheel helps you predict direction, such as which color will neutralize another. Your own mixing chart tells you what actually happens with your paints.

Keep learning