- Level
- Beginner
- Time
- 2 to 3 hours, plus drying
- Rough budget
- $15-$30
You will paint a 12-section color wheel on heavy paper: three primaries, three secondaries, and six tertiaries, all mixed by hand. You can pin it above your workspace and use it whenever you pick paint, thread, or fabric.
Building the wheel yourself shows you why it works. Each secondary comes from two primaries, and each tertiary sits between neighbors. Seeing those mixes happen makes the wheel far easier to remember than looking at a printed one.
Project palette
Explore in Palette Builder Compare these colors
Materials
- 1 sheet of heavy watercolor or mixed-media paper, at least 9 x 12 inches
- 3 tubes of acrylic or gouache: a red, a yellow, and a blue
- 2 round brushes, sizes 4 and 8
- 1 paper plate or palette for mixing
- 1 pencil and 1 eraser
- 1 compass or a small plate about 7 inches wide to trace
- 1 ruler
- 2 jars of water and a roll of paper towels
Steps
Draw the circle
Trace the plate or use the compass to draw a circle in the center of the paper. Mark the center, then use the ruler to divide the circle into 12 equal wedges, like a clock face.
Place the primaries
Pencil a small R, Y, and B in wedges at 12, 4, and 8 o'clock. Those four-wedge gaps keep the primaries evenly spaced.
Paint the primaries
Paint each primary straight from the tube, with a little water for smooth coverage. Rinse your brush fully between colors. Let the paint dry for about 10 minutes.
Mix the secondaries
Blend equal parts of two neighboring primaries on your plate and paint the wedge halfway between them. Start with small amounts, since a tiny bit of blue overpowers yellow quickly.
Mix the tertiaries
Combine one primary with the secondary next to it, using roughly two parts primary to one part secondary. Fill the six remaining wedges, testing each mix on scrap paper first.
Tidy the edges
Once everything is dry, go back and fix any wedges that look off. Painting a second thin coat gives even color. Erase leftover pencil marks after the paint has fully dried.
Label the wheel
Write each color name in small letters just outside its wedge, such as red-orange or blue-green. Adding labels turns the project into a study tool.
Add a mixing note
On the back, jot down your mix ratios so you have a recipe next time.
Why these colors work
A traditional red-yellow-blue wheel places the three primaries 120 degrees apart. Each secondary falls exactly midway between two primaries, 60 degrees from each, and each tertiary falls 30 degrees from its neighbors. Hues directly across the wheel, such as red and green or blue and orange, sit 180 degrees apart and are called complements.
Editorial suggestion: Keep the wheel near your painting area and glance at it before you buy supplies. Muddy mixes often come from colors near opposite sides, so checking where two colors land first can save paint.
Mistakes to avoid
Overloading with the strongest color
Blue and red pigments tend to dominate yellow. Add the darker color to the lighter one a dot at a time.
Skipping the scrap-paper test
Wet paint dries a shade darker. Swatch each mix on scrap paper and wait a minute before committing to the wedge.
Rinsing too quickly
A little leftover red in your brush will turn a fresh green brownish. Rinse until the water runs clear, then blot the brush.
Uneven wedge sizes
Measure the divisions before painting. Wobbly wedges make good mixes look sloppy.
Palette variations
- Use a cyan-magenta-yellow set such as #00A6D6, #D6007F, and #FFE000 for brighter secondaries.
- Paint a muted wheel by adding a touch of brown (#7A5230) to every wedge for an earthy, vintage look.
- Make a tint wheel by mixing white into every color, aiming for soft pastels like #F4B6C2 and #B5D6F2.
Safety
Work in a room with fresh air, keep paint away from food, and wash your hands after painting. Check that your paints are labeled non-toxic if children will help.
Guides behind this project
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